Dealer Has Blackjack

Where I lost it all. The California Hotel & Casino. 

Friday night: After downing a $9.95 surf and turf special at the Californian, I played blackjack for the first time. Sitting at a $2 table with my SO standing behind me to remind me of Basic Strategy, I slowly but steadily lost $20 in an hour. I had a string of incredible bad luck. The dealer kept hitting 21. And two of the three times I finally got blackjack, it was a push.

We changed dealers three times, and each one had great luck - for the casino. Several players came hopeful and left disgusted and broke. We should have gone back to the Golden Gate, where the dealers are friendlier and the worn green felt tables more comforting. I hung on, hoping to win, but dribbled away another $20. With my backside sore after sitting for 2 1/2 hours, I finally left and we headed to the airport to catch the red eye.

It's amazing what a change of venue can do. Back in Washington, sitting in the third-floor loft in my house, I can hear the crickets chirruping in the soft night through the open window. I was in Vegas less than 36 hours ago, yet its searing heat, the mini dust-devils swirling in empty gravel lots, the endless construction on the city's ever-expanding perimeters, and the gaudy, desperate neon signs seem long ago.

But I plan on returning. Among the items on my list that I didn't check off: Hiking in Red Rock Canyon. Taking the scenic tour of Valley of Fire State Park. Nibbling on a shrimp cocktail at the Golden Gate. Scarfing a 99-cent hot dog and a Bud at the Golden Spike. Eating (do you see a theme here?!) a Kobe steak at the high-end Bradley Ogden in Caesar's Palace and anything at Lotus of Siam. Watching the pirate show at the TI and talking statues at the Venetian (or is it Caesar's?). Riding the rollercoasters at the Stratosphere and looking out over Vegas from the Strat's 1,149-foot tower. Watching the sunset over French Mountain.

Oh, and winning back my $40.